Pre Fashion Week Predictions

With Lakme Fashion Week beginning tomorrow it is only befitting that we publish this story that appeared in the DNA earlier this month on my trend predictions for this Autumn Festive showcase.

FASHION FORWARD

Want a sneak peak of the styles, fabrics and hues in store at the upcoming Winter/Festive 2013 Fashion Week? Radhika Dhawan predicts the trends from ramp to road.

The big four—Paris, Milan, New York and London—may have moved beyond the excitement of the Autumn-Winter 13/14 collections, but in India things are just heating up. Key themes that are likely to translate to the Indian catwalks include: 
Punk
The New York Metropolitian Museum of Art’s annual costume exhibition is always scrutinized and reinterpreted by designers. This year it celebrated punk with a ‘Chaos to Couture’ theme. The runways saw zips, chains, PVC, leather, tartan and studs. However, these were polished and not as scary as they could have been. Urban punk-chic was illustrated in collections by Versace, Fendi, Jean Paul Gaultier, Saint Laurent, Chanel and Moschino.

Punk interpreted by Versace 'Vunk'

Punk interpreted by Versace ‘Vunk’

Designer Nikhil Thampi is looking forward to seeing “Indian designers’ perception of punk”. With our diverse climatic conditions, going all out with fabrics like leather may not be optimal. However, it may be seen in tops, skirts or trims. “I’m mixing hard and soft, sheer with leather appliqués,” reveals Anushka Khanna.

Punk goes softer with a dark romance that’s both mystifying and lavish—think capes, high necks and toe-grazing hems, in opulent textures and grand silhouettes. Feminine, yet rocker-inspired, it dilutes tough elements like leather and hardware with flowing fabrics.

Sonam Kapoor in Shehla Khan

Sonam Kapoor in Shehla Khan

Think Meadham Kirchhoff, Christopher Kane, Givenchy. Key fabrics include lace and velvet. Gothic undertones are seen in prints and embroidery. Elements include studs, brocade and dark colours. “Opulent fabrics like ribbed satin, tulle, shimmer net, silk and organza offset edgy detailing (chainmail, crystals, leather applique) even as embroidered flowers and satin cords lend a romantic note,” says Ritika about her collection.

Velvet, never having fully disappeared from the Indian runways, emphasises dark romance.  Though not too appealing in large doses, designers like Manish Malhotra, Neeta Lulla and Rohit Bal often use it to signify opulence. Nishka Lulla concurs, “Velvet may translate well on the Indian catwalk, mixed with chiffon and lace.”

Retro resurfaces. Shehla Khan says, “This fall, my favourite trend is retro. I love how most of the international designer collections are based on the 60s, 70s and even the 40s!” Nipped-waist skirt suits, soft shouldered coats, sweetheart necklines–think Mad Men. Prada, Bottega Veneta, Christian Dior, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Oscar De La Renta exemplify this all-encompassing trend.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

What’s His is Hers
The His for Her trend is still hot, though possibly approaching climax. Silhouettes will be less androgynous and more lady-like with sharp tailoring or drapes. Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackerman, and Dolce & Gabanna used traditional Savile Row plaids, hounds tooth, pinstripe and Prince of Wales checks and draped them with the ease of silk or had them embroidered. Shehla Khan says, “Internationally, structure is a common trend. Be it for outerwear such as jackets and coats or even blouses and dresses, every silhouette makes a statement. This trend can transfer to Indian wear in terms of separates, such as a sari with a jacket!”

Skirt Suits—a trend that emerged from the streets— are easier to wear than dress or trouser suits and can easily transition from work or daywear to the evening, by switching up accessories. Pencil skirts and belted jackets are essentials as seen at Prada, Marc Jacobs or skater skirts like Stella Mccartney. The new skirt, is longer at mid-calf length, with a slight flare at the knee, as shown by Hermes, Prada, Jil Sander and Celine. Nishka finds “the midi length very flattering on the Indian body type”. Mullet skirts like those of Jean Paul Gaultier are also expected to transition to Indian runways.
Monochrome continues to reign. You may spot these colours individually too. Black is black, so a liberal use of it would not be uncommon, especially in the Winter/Festive season. Be prepared to see a lot of white and not just as a day colour. On the Big 4 runways, head-to-toe winter white made strong impressions on Derek Lam and Proenza Schouler. My personal favourite was Celine’s use of all white for their ensembles. Shehla who loves white said, “This season my palette consists of deeper and bolder colours along with off white, which for me is always ethereal.” While monochrome might still rule, the palette on international runways encapsulated much of the spectrum from red to blue. Ritika agrees, “The colour palette ranges from dusky pink to a purple haze (a blue-tinted purple), crimson and black.”

Gold rules. As Thampi says about his upcoming collection, “Gold being a festive favourite, will definitely be a large part of the collection, but there would be a burst of different colours as well.”

IN THE KNOW WITH RADHIKA – VOL 7

Hello August! This marks the beginning of fashion week season in India. The Couture Week in Delhi is already in progress and I must say Anju Modi & Sabyasachi ensembles have left me speechless. Also the full list of participating designers in the Lakme Fashion Week happening later this month is revealed.

I can barely conceal my excitement over some of the other happenings in the world of global fashion. My personal favourite and most revered fashion business icon forays back after a sabbatical, H&M launches e-commerce FINALLY, Rihanna slams Topshop in a lawsuit (good for her) and of course the BEST news for us here in India (well, I speak for myself at least) Michael Kors launches in Delhi!!

Michael Kors in India – YAY!

Okay, so I don’t know the entire deal here yet but late last evening the Michael Kors facebook page posted the below picture signifying they have, at long last, opened their first store here in India! As an ardent fan I have just one word to express my glee – Wooohooo!

 Michael Kors India

Will keep you’ll posted as soon as I come across more details.

H&M goes online

Does this mean more over ASOS? Well either way, I am overjoyed for the US customers of the Swedish retailer who already offered online shopping for Austria, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Germany, the Netherlands, the UK and, of course, Sweden.

080113-h-m-e-commerce-340

This day has been in the works for months and it was worth the wait for you guys in the US. The Swedish retailer has options for women, men, plus-size and kids at fingertips the site is a one-stop shop for quick, affordable fashion delivered right to your doorstep.The site also showcases items exclusively available online, like H&M’s first home collection, which was part of the online debut yesterday.

ALSO, the entire Isabel Marant collaboration will be available as will other future collaborations. Say goodbye to those overcrowded dressing rooms.  Excited yet? Then head to hm.com — it’s time to start shopping.

Read more: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/08/01/shop-hm-online_n_3687871.html?utm_hp_ref=business&ir=Business

Tamara Mellon to launch lifestyle brand

Anyone else wondered what Tamara Mellon was up to for the last 2 years? Well, speculate no more.

Mellon has been one of my biggest inspirations for the last decade now. After having sold Jimmy Choo to Labelux in 2011 and departing from the company herself shortly after, she pretty much went underground without any further professional plans.

Tamara Mellon

Tamara Mellon

Recently, she gave American Vogue the first look at her eponymous lifestyle brand set to hit Tamaramellon.com in November. There will be ready-to-wear, handbags, and (duh!) shoes. Priced at from $295 for a cashmere tee to $4,500 for a ponyskin leopard-print trench coat, this label has Tamara Mellon written all over it.

Read more: http://fashionista.com/2013/07/tamara-mellon-set-to-launch-new-lifestyle-brand-with-sales-plan-that-bucks-industry-standards/

Rihanna wins lawsuit against Topshop

Unlike Miley Cyrus’ Tshirt for Marc Jacobs which she endorsed and even posed (naked!) for, Topshop was selling the ‘Rihanna Tank’ which was never permitted by the Umbrella singer.

The singer accused the fashion chain of failing to seek approval from her before going ahead with printing their stock. At a hearing in London, Judge Mr Justice Birss ruled in the 25-year-old’s favour, asserting that the British retailer was guilty of “passing off”. Passing off is a common law tort which can be used to enforce unregistered trademark rights.

Riri

The Topshop tank shows Rihanna wearing a dungaree-strap bra top – the same outfit that she wore, as one of the numerous outfits, in the video for We Found Love.  The photograph was taken unofficially during the shoot in Northern Ireland.

(See it here at 2:56 seconds)

The judge ruled in Riri’s favour due to the fact that a “substantial number” of buyers were likely to have been deceived into purchasing the product on “false belief” that it had been authorised by the singer. As a result, he said this was damaging to Rihanna’s “goodwill” and represented a loss of control over her reputation in the “fashion sphere” and has sued the British retailer’s parent company, Arcadia, for damages of $5m (£3.3m).

Methinks her designing a second clothing line for River Island could also be a conflict of interest, no?

Read more: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-23514738

In other news

This week seems to have been super eventful. Few more news worthy stories

Manish Malhotra – Lakme Fashion Week curtain raiser

Alexander Wang’s first bag for Balenciaga

Hillary Clinton Scoops Up Another Major Fashion Endorsement

Take this Quiz: How hip are you? – Tell us your score and maybe we’ll reveal ours as well 😉